Girls Just Want To Have Fun!
The world is crazy for LUXURY STREET.
Afterward of the Luxury Street Scene.
Photo_Kisshomaru Shimamura
JAPANESE
ENGLISH
New type of designers who are not restricted by existing rules made the current trend
that even maison brands give their eye to street.
Integrating street born idea with certain quality is the scene lead
by those new designers and “Moment of Luxury Street”,
the cross-talk feature of 『houyhnhnm unplugged』magazine
by Kubo Mitsuhiro and Kogi“Poggy”Motofumi comes back here
by having a model, Kozue Akimoto.
（From left）
Kubo Mitsuhiro
Representative of the specialty shop「GR8」The store finished expanding renovation in April and stocks variety of brands in genre-less mode/street from both domestic and overseas.
Kozue Akimoto
Her asian beauty look gets high attention and she actively plays modeling role at wide genre of fashion scene from mode to street.
Recently she appears on a lot of show or magazine editorial in overseas.
Kogi“Poggy”Motofumi
Director of「UNITED ARROWS & SONS
」that receives high attention from overseas. Widely know under the nickname of “Poggy”.- World wide trend for the current fashion scene is “Luxury Street” brands. Kubo-san and Kogi-san, you two did cross-talk based on this theme at『houyhnhnm unplugged』magazine, which was released in March 2016. How do you see anew this movement and circumstance?
- Kogi“Poggy”I think that Virgil Abloh of〈OFF-WHITE〉 is a figure who made the Luxury Street brands trend as I’ve mentioned before.
Motofumi（Kogi below） - Kubo Mitsuhiro（Kubo below）Virgil was running brand called 〈PYREX VISION〉〉 before he starts〈OFF-WHITE〉about 4 years ago, I think and pushed “PYREX” logo printed items. MC like A$AP Rocky wearing them became a hot topic at that time. I feel that movement of fashion dramatically changed since that.
- KogiA$AP Rocky puts brand names like〈Rick Owens〉and〈Alexander Wang〉into lyrics so I checked out and he was wearing〈STUSSY〉. Because he mixes it with designer’s brands or using single color tone, he looks MODE. I think it was a little bit later when Kanye West was getting into MODE.
- KuboVirgil is the one who’s been supporting Kanye from visual aspect for a long term.
- KogiCrucial keywords for this genre is “From LA” and “made in Italy”. There are many brands that integrate street born open-minded idea with high quality of made in Italy. I remember it was〈OFF-WHITE〉and 〈BUSCEMI〉that introduced “made in Italy” in early times. The company called 「New Guards Group」in Italy undertakes planning and production of 〈HOOD BY AIR〉,〈MARCELO BURLON〉 and〈Parm Angels〉as well as〈OFF-WHITE〉.
- KuboOriginally fine production line was set so what they needed to do is just bringing talented designer. They started with〈MARCELO BURLON〉and Marcelo brought on Virgil and Virgil brought on Shayne of 〈HOOD BY AIR〉. 〈Parm Angels〉 is same flow and they got in〈HERON PRESTON〉recently.
- Men’s fashion week in January and Women’s fashion week in March was just few months ago and do their influence remain unchanged since a year ago?
- KuboInfluence got even stronger and everyone is trying to get into that area. They try to copy the way of expression rather than business aspect.
- There are so many local people who wear those brands, right?
- KuboYes. We,「GR8」organizes party during Men’s fashion week every time, but because date was late of week this time, buyers were tired so not many showed up. Lol Despite the situation, local kids who are really into music came along and many of them dressed that kind of style.
- I went to that event too. Seeing many shaven-headed girls was impressive.
- KuboIndeed.
- AkimotoThere’s a model who is Kanye’s favorite is blonde shaved head isn’t it?
- KuboBraina Laviena, right? Shaved head girls are cool.
- AkimotoThat’s right. She has mood so cute. We do see shaved head girls sometimes in Japan don’t we?
- KogiLast year, it was trend in men’s too.
- KuboProbably it’s to do with influence of Gosha（Rubchinskiy）. Its origin is sports wear scene in London by tucking T-shirt into trousers and wear a cap in low angle.
- KogiTalking about hair style, we see many dreadlocks tied at top this year.
- KuboI think MC like Travis Scott, Kendrick Lamar and A$AP Rocky gave impact on that hair style.
- I saw you, Akimoto-san at Men’s fashion week. Do you go to see men’s every year?
- AkimotoKubo-san encouraged me to go to Men’s so I started to come by myself, not being invited by particular brand. Lol I’d rather do so because I can see more shows and explore various places.
- Please tell us show or brand that impressed you.
- AkimotoI saw people wearing〈OFF-WHITE〉in every countries I went. I also saw gigantic number of non-invited people at〈OFF-WHITE〉show and they were all fashionable.
- KuboRecently we see women buying men’s brand and women’s buyer wear men’s outfit during Women’s fashion week. Men go to see show by dressing street taste styling so that mood may impact on women’s. I don’t feel away mood than before at Women’s fashion week. Lol
- AkimotoBecause Women’s fashion week is luxury , I have to aware of it in some extent, otherwise I might be out of circle, but Men’s week can have a fun with easy going style.
- Kogi〈Missoni〉was interesting. Director of men’s division is Steven Man who is close to「Gimme Five」. Since he joined the brand, they put effort on cultural side for example Michael Kopelman does music. Also〈AIME LEON DORE〉was good too. I’ve been seeing show for a while but next season was really good with elegant mood. Lastly〈PIGALLE〉is really good at production as usual. They have conviction from the beginning and still appoint local Pigalle area grown model.
- I see. There are young kids saying like ‘I’m friend with ○○’ at entrance and get inside beside press with invitation waited outside for long time under extreme cold temperature. Lol
-
KogiShow casting is facing that direction as a whole. Like 〈COMME des GARÇONS〉used to book artist or musician rather than professional model. It’s characteristic of Men’s. By the way, Kozue-chan, you walked runway at〈MARCELO BURLON〉Milano show in January didn’t you?
- AkimotoI sent message to Kubo-san before the show because I see Kubo-san quite regularly. Poggy-san up me on his Instagram.
-
KogiI was concentrating show and then Kozue-chan came out so surprising. Lol
- Did Marcelo directly ask you?
- AkimotoI was in Milano around when brand had just started and someone introduced him to me. He was really pleased by seeing me wearing 〈MARCELO BURLON〉T-shirt and he goes like ‘Japanese girl is wearing T-shirt even in men’s size!’. We got along since then and hang out together when he comes to Japan. This time, he asked me because he wanted show image to be a bit luxury.
- How was walking runway of Men’s brand in overseas?
- AkimotoI felt freedom atmosphere. Though I don’t understand language much, there’s no strange temper in there. They even changed order of walking by grooves. On the other hand, I could feel more fighting like tension from models at Women’s show.
- KuboThat’s specialty of Men’s. By the way Marcelo called Kozue-chan as ‘Japanese wife’ at dinner. Lol
- AkimotoHe calls me Japanese wife again and again so there’s rumor at internet like ‘Is she married with Marcelo?’ Lol We are definitely not like that relationship, but surely he’s been very nice to me. He said ‘I’m going to introduce you all my friends’ when we went to see〈Parm Angels〉show. Once I became his family, I feel much more family love. I’m grateful that he simply says ‘I like Kozue’ and doesn’t ask for any return from it. Women’s is kind of more dry and business like. Not all of them are though.
- Is prioritizing connection rather than business features of designers in this scene as you mentioned during 『houyhnhnm unplugged』magazine cross-talk?
- KogiI remember〈UMIT BENAN〉as kind of pioneer as he did show or presentation by appointing his crew around him rather than using professional models. I reckon everybody wants something that can’t buy in money. I guess Virgil makes clothes in same sense as he does DJ and party sense for Marcelo. I think they want that sort of idea and family like connection.
- AkimotoCertainly there are people who like Virgil because he started innovative things, however there are some who think him as nonconformist.
- KogiA$AP Rocky’s Twitter caused a buzz a while ago.
- AkimotoMoreover Hedi（Slimane）and Raf（Simmons）mentioned about him. Which is right can’t be categorically described as it’s new movement and it can’t be helped.
- KuboAlthough I understand mind of people who have been protecting traditional things, I think this movement that Virgil started and base that Marcelo and New Guards Group created really represent today.
- Isn’t there women’s brand that New Guards Group produces?
- KuboNo women’s-only brand.
- AkimotoMost brands create women’s line beside men’s oriented collection.
- KuboI went to see 〈MARCELO BURLON〉show during Women’s fashion week and it was really great.「GR8」would consolidate women’s line from next season.
- AkimotoShow itself was lovely too.
- KuboSometimes men wearing〈MARCELO BURLON〉could be looking too much, but its design is getting match to women. Not much men’s clothing element was brought into women’s clothing so far, yet it’s well transformed and so as〈OFF-WHITE〉and〈Parm Angels〉.
- Akimoto〈Parm Angels〉was cute!
- Kubo〈HERON PRESTON〉says starting women’s line so I’m very looking forward seeing it. Sales of women’s line possibly exceeds men’s for〈OFF-WHITE〉.
- That’s much popular?
- KuboAs long as I see, there’s no wall between men’s and women’s for them. I’m excited finding out design that is used for men’s at women’s. There are quite a few items that I actually want to buy.
- AkimotoTaking account of that, women can wear men’s clothing easier than men.
- KogiIt’s unfair because you guys can create silhouette that we can’t. Lol
- KuboI cannot wear skirt. Lol I found a lot of item that I personally want for first collection of〈Vetements〉. Even I can wear them because they are big sizing. I feel jealous to women these days.
- AkimotoI don’t really care genre whether street or mode. I wear what I like from ages ago. I guess I’m the one who have most〈KTZ〉clothing in Japan though it’s men’s brand. Lol Because it’s easier for women to go beyond border, I wonder ‘why don’t girls wear men’s clothing?’ at that time.
- What’s your outfit, today?
- AkimotoActually I hardly had denim so far, but I feel wearing denim for this half year. Pants is〈MM6〉and boots is〈Maison Margiela〉tabi-boots. Tabi-boots is getting popular again these days. Tops are both〈JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN〉. I’d like to wear Japanese brand in daily basis as me being Japanese model and (Yanagawa) Arashi-san is especially my favorite designer. I’m usually like I get to know designer and I came to like the brand more. Though men’s image is strong for〈JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN〉, women’s is also really nice.
- KogiIt wouldn’t be cool unless a person who wear truly connect to the brand like Kozue-chan.
- KuboIndeed.
- What do you mean by connect?
- KogiYou need to get designer’s mind first in order to be cool.
- AkimotoBecause of Instagram, women tend to be especially pretentious for it. I feel uncomfortable for those who just see single aspect.
- KuboBrands that「UNITED ARROWS＆SONS」deals are all close to Poggy-san and customers also feel empathy to his style and thought. So even if I wanted to start dealing those brands at「GR8」, I don’t have confidence to break into their family tie with Poggy-san. Lol
- KogiThen New Guards Group should be yours, Kubo-san. Lol
- KuboWhat we, Poggy-san, Kozue-chan and me commonly have is that we try to communicate and understand brands by going to party, say hello and give a hug at local society. Unless me as being a buyer know about the brand, good vibes won’t reach to customer. As long as we know about the brand well, we can conduct attraction to customer even if brand is not famous.
- AkimotoI think customers have understanding for what’s Kubo-san ism or Poggy-san ism and they like it.
- Both stores have many customers from overseas don’t they?
- KogiYes. Women from Asian countries buy luxury men’s brand in a lot of cases.
- KuboWomen from overseas don’t rally care about categories. They tend to buy if items itself is good even when size doesn’t properly fit her. Saying like ‘I will adjust by belt’ for loose T-shirt. They don’t care if it’s men’s brand.
- KogiJapan was positioned at most behind when it comes to Luxury Street movement. Asian countries except for Japan accepted relatively right away. I think rules like “Tops has to be BD shirt when you wear blazer jacket” is kind of rooted to everyone’s head in Japan. When Miyashita-san,〈NUMBER (N)INE〉 and Takahashi Jun-san,〈UNDERCOVER〉started runway show back in 90’s by street approach, there might be some negative opinions. However, that approach is world-wide mainstream now. The biggest difference of then and now is that, people who haven’t learnt clothe making are making now.
- As mentioned earlier, there are iconic celebrities like Kanye West and A$AP Rocky at men’s scene. How about women’s scene?
- AllRihanna?
- AkimotoThere are a lot of icons in men’s, but when it comes to women’s, I guess it’s Rihanna’s exclusive territory. Lol Maybe my research isn’t good enough? Rihanna occasionally wears men’s clothing.
- KogiShe wears various brands including non famous ones. I think she cares quality, but not brand name.
- KuboIt’s hard to name when it come to “world scale”, but there are some icons who have strong influence to local.
- For example?
- KogiGilda is very fashionable.
- KuboGilda Gilda. It’s her style to take street items into styling and make it look cool since early times. Hair style was similar to Kozue-chan. She’s started her own label these days.
- KogiMoreover, Aleali who is a stylist and also good at taking street taste item into style.
- KuboShe wears anything. She comes to see all shows too.
- AkimotoChristina Paik is my favorite. Seeing her coordinate is very fun. Though she wears brand clothes, she drops them into her style and that’s why I like her.
- KogiShe’s at core places in right time.
- How about designers?
- KuboDemna（Gvasalia）in terms of making an impact to a whole industry. I think his exploit is enormous. Alexander Wang was the designer of 〈Balenciaga〉before he takes over and there was a sense of limitation at that time, however as soon as Demna joined the brand, he made it to be the hottest brand in the world.
- AkimotoThere are a lot of things happened that time as designers of maison brands consecutively quit.
- Distance between maison and street got much closer than ever. Recently〈Jil Sander〉 announced to appoint Mr. and Mrs.〈OAMC〉designers who are originally from〈Supreme〉.
- KogiI think connection between people is important after all. Though this is my personal interpretation, the background of collaboration between〈LOUIS VUITTON〉and〈Supreme〉is related to origin of Kim Jones who is from「Gimme Five」in London and inspired by interaction between Michael Kopelman and Fujiwara Hiroshi-san at that time so it’s kind of his dream comes true. Collaboration with Hiroshi-san’s〈Fragment〉is same. I don’t know how that affects to maison, but definitive thing is that movement happens due to bond. Demna appoints Mark Borthwick for〈Balenciaga〉who worked together when Margiela period.
- Honestly, how do you see collaboration of〈LOUIS VUITTON〉and〈Supreme〉?
- KogiAs what I’ve just said. I think this kind of movement gets stronger from what〈Kenzo〉did.〈Kenzo〉made a cap in collaboration with〈New Era〉. In this sense, collaboration of〈LOUIS VUITTON〉and〈Supreme〉is the best of best that no one can beats.
- Kubo〈Supreme〉 used to annoy〈LOUIS VUITTON〉by using their fabric without permission, but now they are officially collaborating. Time has changed. Talking from dealer’s point of view, there are so many dealers that can’t deal with this product and kind of out of circle so don’t know what comment to make. There’s a bit of jealous. Lol
- AkimotoSales will be huge and〈Supreme〉will be more accelerated. I’m curious what next move of〈LOUIS VUITTON〉would be.
- KogiDo you remember when〈LOUIS VUITTON〉made bags with brands like〈Helmut Lang〉and〈Vivienne Westwood〉back in 90’s?〈LOUIS VUITTON〉made a vinyl bag with〈Helmut Lang〉and appointed Grandmaster Flash who is a father of scratch for its advertising. Marc Jacobs was involved to this project and made a huge buzz at that time. So I think maison that has over 100 years’ history have great capacity of doing adventurous attempt and that’s secret behind their success.
- KuboCreative director of〈LOEWE〉is a very close friend of Marcelo from early times. Apparently he is from〈J.W.Anderson〉and knows about street a lot so I think that’s why both brands are popular. There are a lot of people doing well at maison who are originally from street.
- Last question. Please tell us your outlook of 2017 Fall / Winter fashion scene.
- KogiWhat I felt at local is that number of Men’s shows have decreased especially in Milano. Brands integrate men’s to Women’s show. There are more women’s buyers for Men’s fashion week so really border-less is in progress. In details, designers go to fabric trade show to get inspiration of new creation, right? Fabric manufactures make a presentation of men’s fabric at women’s fabric trade show and vice versa in order to expand business. Therefore, mixing of men’s and women’s is in progress from even fabric aspect.
- KuboI see…very deep interpretation… Poggy-san you are amazing! Lol For me, I think it’s kind of stagnant period now. Although it’s a bit harsh way of saying, copying of the previous work. Brands and buyers will have to rely on standard items that are kind of guaranteed sales rather than being interesting. I am always looking for a new flow as a buyer, but quite tough .... So as a next step of the shop, we are now focusing on women's. But since we can’t do same thing as women’s specialized shop would do, we are exploring our best way of selling women’s.
- Akimoto（Mademoiselle）Yulia’s pop-up was grooving wasn’t it?
- Is it〈FENTY PUmA by Rihanna〉？
- KuboThat was completely experimental pop-up. Because we don’t have know-how of how to deal women’s clothing, we let production to girls. What our staff did was just selling. Lol So I asked Yulia-chan who’s been friend of me for long time to do direction of〈FENTY PUmA by Rihanna〉pop-up shop. It worked out well beyond my prediction.
- AkimotoIts rendering was fresh for Japan. There are girls inside shop like installation, which is photogenic and of course, you can do shopping.
- KuboCustomers who came to shop were almost all women because live situation was introduced at Instagram. It was the best benefit that we were able to feel the way of new attempt could become weapons for the future times and we’d like to ask to Kozue-chan if appoint fees matches. Lol After all, fashion is meaningless unless it’s fun, so if forgiven, I’d like to ask to Poggy-san too. We do selling, so will you do casting and dye display to poggy color?Lol
- KogiLol.
- KuboIt may be exaggerating way of saying, but「GR8」can be just a venue. If we were to do both men's women's in full swing, we will be wiping out the image so far and aiming to create a shop where its mood changes dramatically depending on who’s in charge of production.
- KogiThat’s great idea.
- KuboSo『Girl Houyhnhnm』pop-up is welcomed!
- AllLol.
